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HITCHHIKING THROUGH THE CANYON
By an Adventuring Mouse*
In the Moonlight
Looking out from my rocky home, I saw the shapes of tents, boxes and
bags clearly illuminated in silvery moonlight. All was silent, except for
the roar of distant rapids. I was eager to inspect this new group of
campers who were were visiting my sandy beach. As I scurried along my
usual route, I ran right over the top of a sleeping bag. It was like
climbing a small hill, for the sleeper inside was lying on his side. I
know because I went right up to the head of the bag and looked in. During
my lifetime, I have seen a lot of groups come and go on my beach. Most of
them stay for only a night. They hike up a trail, they cook the
best-smelling food you can imagine, they sit around talking, and they go
to bed soon after dark. Some of them wander around a bit during the night,
some of them snore, and all of them are up early, before the sun shines in
here in the morning. If I’m lucky, I sometimes find a snack during the
night. I check their duffel bags, which is easy if they’re not inside a
tent, and I look all over the sand where they have been eating. Too many
of these groups are thoughtless. They don’t leave much for a curious
mouse like me to find.
This group appears to be a little
different. From my safe vantagepoint, I watched them form a line near
their raft and hand their bags from one person to the next. Before that,
they had taken little bags and spread them all over the beach. It turned
out they were marking the places they wanted to sleep. After getting all
the big bags off the raft, they reached into the biggest one and took
out smaller bags holding some sort of mechanical contraption. They pulled
here and there and ended up with three legs coming to a point at the top.
I heard them call this a tripod. Then they reached into another bag and
took out what I recognize as a camera. Although most people just hold
their cameras to their eyes, this group put their cameras
on top of the tripods and then spent a long time looking through the cameras.
I can’t figure out why they do this. Can they see better that way? Does
it change the view? Perhaps it increases their pleasure or is fun in some
way. I hear serious discussions going on, but their words don’t make much
sense to me. Something about f-stops and exposures, center-weighting and
spot metering. However, I can understand when they exclaim,
"Look at that light!" for I have lived on this beach all my
life and I too have my favorite times of day when the light glows or night
when everything looks mystical. Which reminds me, now that it’s night,
I’d better get busy. I am determined to explore their raft tonight!
Lucky for me, they stretch a long rope from the raft to a stake on the
beach. The rope lies on the sand, and it’s easy to scamper along it and
get up on the high deck. I could never get up here without their help.
Whoops! I almost slid off the side! These great big rounded edges can be
hazardous!
Although they took a lot of stuff to the beach, they still left some
big heavy boxes. Some of them smell as though there should be food inside,
but I can’t get in to find out. What I do find are some interesting
crevices. A mouse could hide in there all day, which gives me a great
idea. I could actually stay onboard and find out where these rafts go!
Maybe traveling with these people would help me understand them better.
First I’d better find something to eat. After looking around and finding
nothing, I gave up and went back to the beach.
The only food I can find in their camp are some scraps in a big plastic
bag. It was twisted shut, but there was a little residue on the edge. It’s
a good thing I don’t rely on the food these people bring with them. I
went back to my hole under the rock, where I have some seeds that I have
collected from plants around here. I saw some of my friends and told them
I was going to go adventuring. They tried to convince me to forget the
idea, but now that I have thought of it, I need to do it.
This time I went more slowly across my rope bridge. Am I making a
mistake? Will I ever get back to my beach? Will I ever see my friends
again?
In the Daylight
I
huddled in my crack between a big fat tube and a hard-sided box. I could
see the large round moon sinking toward a golden cliff illuminated by
the rising sun. A young woman opened the box next to me and took something
to the shore. I shifted my position so I could see her standing at a table.
She seems to be the cook for everyone else, although there is a young
man who does some of the cooking. Just then, the young man came onboard.
I squeezed back in as far as I could go. He went clear to the back and
got a small cylinder, then he moved about the entire raft with it making
a loud noise. I’m not exactly sure what he is doing, but it seems to have
something to do with each of the tubular sections of the raft. Last night
I discovered that the raft is made up of separate elongated tubes hooked
together. I could walk on them easily, as long as I avoided the rounded
sides. This morning the tubes bounced whenever the man or woman walked
on them. Maybe they are filled with air, and maybe that noisy cylinder
was adding more air.
After a while the man and woman came back to put food boxes away. They
spread a big tarp out in the center of the raft, and people on shore
formed a line again to hand up the big bags. When the pile was very high,
they tucked another tarp over the top and tied it down with ropes that
snapped together. This was all done very quickly, and soon everyone had
climbed onboard with their little bags that they clipped onto the tiedown
ropes. I thought the tubes were bouncy before, but you should have seen
them when all those people were milling about! Ouch! The hard-sided box
just squeezed me. Maybe I can find a better place.
I saw my chance when no one was looking and I darted under the edge of
the tarp. They had tied it down well, but there was a fold I could squeeze
through. Now I can choose from several places between some of the big
bags. I won’t be able to see as well, but I can hear and I can go out to
the edge of the tarp when I want to see. The rest of the time I should be
safe and comfortable.
The woman-who-cooks asked if everyone has fastened his or her life
jacket. All the people are wearing puffy orange vests with a floppy pillow
behind the neck. I guess they want to keep warm on the river, and maybe
the floppy pillow is a bug-chaser, although there are no bugs around here
now.
The man started up another noisy thing he called a motor. I looked this
object over last night. It has a bulbous top and a shaft of some sort
going down into the water. I could barely make out in the clear water that
there is a sort of pinwheel on the bottom. Someone once brought a pinwheel
to my beach and I heard them talking about the wind making it go around.
Maybe somehow water makes this pinwheel go around, which in turn makes the
noise. It isn’t terribly noisy like some I heard a long time ago, but
the man can’t hear when people speak to him. I like it better when the
man shuts the noise off, stopping the pinwheel, and we drift.
"Oh! Look at that! Where’s my camera?" These
people seem to be obsessed with their cameras. They rustle around in their
little bags often, and they
stand up and sit down quite often. I wonder why they can’t just look at
the view quietly. Maybe they really do need a camera to see well. I creep
to the edge of the tarp and look out on the calm river, with a beautiful
orange reflection of a towering butte and shimmering green blotches mirroring
the tamarisk trees along the shore. It looks very peaceful
Suddenly the man in back said, "Everyone sit down.
Hold on tight and have a nice day." The people all sat down, the
noise started again, and the raft moved faster. I’m guessing the man in
back steers the raft, making it go wherever he
wants. This time he is heading for some white, frothing water ahead of
us. I dart back to my comfortable perch and brace myself. It’s a good
thing I did, because that boat rocked and each part of it seemed to be
moving in a different direction than any other part. I was tossed around
and barely missed being squashed by one of the heavy bags. Whoa! Does
this happen very often? A mouse could get killed in here! On top of that,
some water splashed right through my fold in the tarp. A mouse could even
get wet!
An excited voice said, "That was a fun rapid!" I’m
beginning to sense that their idea of fun might not be the same as mine.
First they have to view the world through a camera, and now they like
being tossed all around. I was relieved when they stopped on shore and
everyone got off. Of course, they had to get their cameras first, and
someone opened the huge duffel so they could get their tripods. Apparently
they need these items to get a closer look at the rapid we just went
through. I took advantage of the quiet time to find a better niche in case
they find another rapid.
When everyone was back on the raft, the man-who-steers started the
noise again. I could hear people close to me talking about the clear cold
water and how they could see rocks below the surface. I hope the
man-who-steers can see the rocks too. That pinwheel looks little compared
to a big boulder, and I guess we couldn’t go anywhere if the pinwheel
got smashed.
Someone said, "We’ll soon know if the Little Colorado is clear
or muddy." What are they talking about? Our river is always clear,
except when there has been rain and the side streams bring in a lot of
silt. There were thunderstorms last week, so perhaps the Little Colorado
is a side stream.
I
found out that the Little Colorado is a river, not a side stream. It came
in on the left, bringing thick brown water into our lovely clear water.
The swirling currents mixed the two rivers into one, making pretty patterns
as they mixed but leaving our river a greenish-brown that we couldn’t
see into. Now how can the man-who-steers see the rocks? Someone observed,
"Well, we no longer can wash our hair and get it clean." The
speaker is a man who seems to know answers, so people ask him all kinds
of questions. The man-who-knows spends a lot of his time gazing at the
cliffs as we travel. Maybe he is wishing he were out there walking.
These people have an interesting custom. Many of them clip a mug on the
front of their orange vests. Every once-in-awhile one of them passes his
or her mug to the next person, who passes it on, and finally it reaches
the back of the raft, where there are two cylindrical containers. Someone
there fills the mug and passes it back. The odd thing is that each person
seems to want the mug filled differently: "half-and-half,"
"full-octane," "all water," "30-70" are some
of the things I hear. Water must be in one jug, but what is in the other?
The second odd thing is that whenever anyone asks to have a mug filled,
all the other people decide they need to pass their mugs too. It surprises
me that they can do this passing back and forth without spilling.
The man-who-steers stopped the raft on a sandy beach. Everyone got off
and the woman-who-cooks rummaged around in the boxes. I moved a little
closer to see what she was going to do. Suddenly she saw me. "A
mouse!" The man-who-steers bounced over quickly, but I jumped back
out of sight. Whew! Wonder what they would do if they caught me? Maybe
hitchhiking isn’t allowed on this boat.
The man-who-steers balanced a tray of food on his hand and stepped off
the front of the raft onto the sand. While everyone was gone, I found a
few crumbs on the deck. Perhaps the woman-who-cooks left them there for
me. After everyone came back, they were talking about a rattlesnake they
saw on the beach. I wondered if any mice like me lived there. They need to
be very careful when there is a rattlesnake near.
We made a couple of other stops, during which the people all had to
take their cameras so they could see well. I heard them talking about
Anasazi writing and ruins, but none of this made any sense to me. The only
ruins I know about were high on the cliff above my home on the sandy
beach, and I had never had any reason to go up there. Near the end of the
afternoon we approached another rapid. This one was even worse! It was
longer and splashier. I could really like this river rafting if only we
could leave out the twisting and squeezing of going through rapids.
The man-who-steers stopped the raft at the steep edge of a sandbar and
said, "We’re home, folks." Everyone grabbed their little bags
and jumped off. Soon they returned to unload the big bags. When the
man-who-steers and the woman-who-cooks took the top tarp off, I was very
careful to stay hidden. I think they may have glimpsed me once, because I
heard the woman-who-cooks say, "We DO have a mouse!" as I
wiggled deeper under the bags. I guess I’ll spend my night back in the
space by the tube and the big box.
My Second Night
The man-who-steers and the woman-who-cooks
sleep on the boat, lulled by the whispering of the water around the tubes.
When the brilliant moonlight once again made the cliffs silvery, I decided
to check out this new camp. It was on a large beach, reminding me of the
camp back home. While some people slept without tents, others were zipped
up in their tents on the sandy ledge near
tamarisk trees. The kitchen was on the sand close to the raft. Nearby
a low rocky ledge supported the two big coolers. I checked the spout on
one. It definitely contained water. I checked the other. The spout was
sugary sweet, with a tartness I recognized as lemon from my explorations
in garbage bags.
Suddenly I saw a small shadow dart
out from
under the rocky ledge. I jumped back a little and watched a second figure
join the first. As they moved towards the garbage sack, I realized they
were pocket mice. Maybe I could make some new friends. I moved forward
slowly, letting them see me. Instead of running away, they stood still
and watched me approach. We wiggled our whiskers at each other, then began
to move around the beach together, sniffing here and there. It wasn’t
long before we started frolicking in a kind
of dance. It was great fun, and I felt sorry for those people who were
sleeping and missing the best part of the night. They never saw us at
play, and they never even knew that a ringtail cat visited their camp
at midnight. We scurried back under the rocky ledge and watched it jump
up on the tables. It even went out on the raft, but the woman-who-cooks
heard it and got up to chase it away. Finally I had to bid my new friends
goodbye, cross back over my rope bridge and stow away in my crevice, for
the sun was starting to color the sky and the bright moon was fading.
My Second Day as a River-Runner
This morning I learned the names of the leaders.
The
man-who-steers is called JP, the woman-who-cooks is Meg, and the
man-who-knows is Gary. JP advised everyone this was going to be a big
rapid day. Although the sky was clear, most of the people put on pants and
jackets they called rainsuits. Meg told everyone to be silent as JP
maneuvered into position for a really big rapid. He said, "Sit down,
hold on tight and have a nice day," then we all hung on as our raft
tilted into the froth. I could see rocks and the passage was narrow, but
we went right through. Of course, everything bounced around again, but I
am learning the best place to be and how to avoid being mashed by the big
bags. JP told the group that we were coming to a big rapid named
Sockdolager, which means "knockout punch." We got through
safely, and I was sure glad it didn’t knock me out.
I no longer see the red walls I am
used to. The cliffs are now very black, although there are occasional
pink stripes. Before the sunlight reached the river the canyon seemed
dark and forbidding,
but the people seemed to like it. They stopped along the shore several
times to peer through their cameras, though Gary said they couldn’t stay
long. Both Gary and JP tell us things about the river, its history and
interesting places to see. Gary helps people look through their cameras.
One time the people left the boat for awhile and returned talking about
a sideways waterfall. I also heard them saying it is strange to call this
area the Upper Granite Gorge, when it isn’t granite at all. It is
fishnew and nice. (Editor's note: Vishnu
Schist and gneiss) Some of the shiny black rocks right at the river’s
edge have interesting fluted shapes. I might enjoy exploring some of those
crevices, even though they look a little spooky.
Several times the people got very
excited about seeing bighorn sheep. They grabbed their cameras, and some
of them put bigger eyes on their cameras. JP stopped the motor and drifted
while everyone peered towards shore. Usually the ewes were down near the
water, while the rams
posed on high ledges, possibly to show off their fine horns or maybe to
enjoy the view.
The other big thing I remember about this day is that we came to an
area where two bridges, one black and the other silver, crossed the river.
A person on the raft told about once walking across one of the bridges
very early in the morning, watching the sunrise. These people seem to like
doing unusual things. I guess that makes two things we have in common.
They like special light on the rocks and they like to go on adventures.
JP selected a broad, level beach for our camp. The most interesting
thing I found there was a ribbon of driftwood all along the rear of the
beach. The people liked it too. They searched for branches they stuck
upright in the sand near their sleeping bags and tents. They draped their
orange vests and other items on the poles, making them look like flags. I
noticed that they were careful to take the sticks down in the morning, so
the beach looked unused except for the multitude of footprints, which
would be erased by the next big wind. Of course, mixed in with all the
people prints were my tiny pawprints. Although I conducted a thorough
exploration of the camp that night, I didn’t meet any new friends for
moonlight dancing. The people slept soundly, except for the usual middle
of the night strolls.
My Third Day on the Water
Again JP announced that this would
be a big rapids day. Not everyone wanted to put on rainsuits, because
they said they got too hot in them, but most decided they might as well
cover up while it was still cool. Some of the people decided to ride on
the outer tubes as we splashed through the milder rapids. Although they
got very wet, they seemed exhilarated by the waves and the rough water.
I got excited too, but not because it was fun. I was more worried than
ever about the shifting bags possibly hurting me as we bounced through
the rapids. I bumped my forehead hard on something I never saw. It was
difficult to stay in my place as everything rocked wildly about me. Twice
I was tossed completely out from under the tarp, and when I finally found
a toehold, I discovered I had landed on a person, the same one each time.
She
seemed more amused than frightened by me, but the raft was pitching and
I quickly left. In the calm between the rapids, I heard people say names
like Granite, Hermit and Crystal. These were really humongous rapids!
I was glad when we stopped and all the people hiked up a stream. I
rested and tried to stop worrying. Maybe there wouldn’t be any more big
rapids. When the people came back, they looked happy and relaxed. They
also looked very wet. I heard one say, "I haven’t played like that
since I was a kid. That was a great waterfall! Such fun to get right under
it!" I heard others practice saying the name of the creek,
"Shin-na-moe."
We saw more fantastic shapes in the
black rocks. There was one
place where everyone had to go ashore, again taking the cameras. I wish
I could look through one of their cameras. It must do something miraculous
to the view, or why would these people drag such awkward things around
with them?
My
favorite time of the day arrived—lunchtime. There always seems to be a
crumb for me, sometimes bread and sometimes cheese. I eagerly moved closer.
Meg exclaimed, "There he is!" Before I knew it, JP clamped me
between two pieces of metal and raised me high into the air. I couldn’t
squirm free, and the smell of burned charcoal was very strong. With some
bouncy steps on the outer tube, he dropped me over the front of the raft,
where I landed on soft sand, not water, and quickly scrambled under a
shallow ledge in a rock. I wasn’t trembling, but I was so frightened I
clung to
the rock as if I were paralyzed. I heard a voice say, "Isn’t he cute!"
A face leaned over me, then I saw the person bring up a camera to look
through it. Scared as I was, I looked right back. I couldn’t see a thing
in the camera from my side, except a big black circle. I wondered how
I looked from the other side. Suddenly there was a bright flash. Was that
lightning? I kept right on staring, and the face and camera moved closer.
There was another bright flash; I didn’t flinch and the face moved away.
Finally I looked around and saw that no one was near. This was my chance.
I scurried to a safer hiding place, then stayed very still watching to
see what might happen next. Perhaps I could get back on the boat. On the
other hand, did I really want to go back to those rapids? I had learned
a lot about these people, and maybe I had learned enough.
I kept very quiet and waited while the people ate. Their cheese and
bread was good, but suddenly I thought longingly of my seeds. The people
all came back to the raft and were snapping on their orange vests. As I
watched in disbelief, one man sitting on the outer tube grabbed at his
hat, then suddenly made a backwards somersault right off the rounded edge.
The water splashed as he hit it. He was doing what I had feared I would
do! Man overboard! Several people jumped in, but he was already standing
up in waist-deep water. Luckily he had not bumped his head on the big rock
nearby. Meg ducked underwater and came up with his glasses. By now
everyone was laughing and joking. Apparently they all thought this was
something funny. I don’t understand their humor, but maybe they were
just relieved that he wasn’t hurt. I’m glad it wasn’t me making that
splash. Mouse overboard! I don’t ever want to hear that call.
I think I’ll stay right here on this sandy beach. I’ve had enough
adventure, at least for awhile. It seems strange to watch the boat swing
out into the current without me. It would be interesting to know what’s
around the next bend, and they were really nice people. Well, maybe there
will be another boat later. I’ll have to think about that, but now I bet
there are some new friends for me to meet right here, maybe up in that
rock pile.
*My tale is a true account, to the best of
my ability, of events that occurred September 12 to 15, 2000 during a ten
day Photography Workshop sponsored by the Friends of Arizona Highways.
Gary Ladd, a professional photographer who specializes in the Grand Canyon
and Lake Powell, led the Workshop. His most recent book, co-authored with
Craig Childs, is Grand Canyon, Time Below the Rim (1999, an Arizona
Highways Book, ISBN 0-916179-78-8). The river runners were Meg and
J.P., who are employed by Hatch River Expeditions. I told my story to
Darlene Ward, one of the participants, who has attached photographs she
and her husband, Jim Ward, took during the trip. There were thirteen
photographers, Gary, the two river guides and myself, which makes
seventeen of us. As far as we can tell, I traveled with the group from
Mile 53.5 at Nankoweap, to Mile 116.5 near Elves Chasm. Sixty-three miles
by river in three days is quite a trip for a little mouse, but I’m
already looking forward to my next adventure.
Copyright © 2000
Darlene B.
Ward
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